Short answer: The hipages 2026 cost guide puts the average cost of LED downlight installation at about $50 to $70 per light, with some electricians charging up to $110, plus a service fee of roughly $110 to $150. Those are national averages. Your price depends on whether you’re swapping old halogens or cutting new holes, the ceiling type, roof access and the downlights you choose.
Downlights are one of the quickest ways to modernise a room, and one of the most common jobs we’re asked to quote in Inner West homes. The catch is that “per light” pricing only tells part of the story. Here’s how the cost really builds up, so you can plan by room rather than by fitting.
Replacement or new install? The biggest price factor
Swapping old halogens for LEDs is the cheapest job. The holes are already there, the cabling is usually there, and the work is mainly replacing the fitting and transformer with an LED fitting and driver. If the old cut-outs are a different size from the new lights, you might need an adapter plate or a slightly larger hole.
New downlights where there were none take longer. Each light needs a hole cut, cable run through the ceiling space, and a switch circuit planned. If you’re replacing a single central batten light with six downlights, that’s six new holes and new cabling.
Ceilings with no access cost the most. Many Inner West terraces and Federation homes have lath-and-plaster or pressed-metal ceilings, and some have very little roof space above. Pressed-metal and decorative plaster ceilings often aren’t suited to downlights at all, and cutting into them can damage heritage features. In those homes, pendants or surface-mounted fittings can be a better choice.
Typical market ranges
| What | Typical market range | Source |
|---|---|---|
| LED downlight installation, per light | $50 to $70 on average, up to $110 | hipages, updated Jan 2026 |
| Service fee (first 30 minutes) | $110 to $150 | same guide |
| Hourly rate after that | $80 to $110 | same guide |
| A basic 13W LED downlight kit (product only) | about $25 | same guide |
These are national averages published by hipages, not Blue Link prices. Sydney labour rates sit towards the upper end of national figures.
Budgeting by room
Rather than guessing a number of lights, think about the job room by room. A rough planning guide (not a rule) used by many lighting designers is to space downlights about 1.2 to 1.5 metres apart for general lighting with a typical 2.4 metre ceiling, then adjust for the light output and beam angle you choose. In practice:
- Bedroom: often 4 to 6 lights, on a dimmer if you like soft light at night.
- Living room: often 6 to 10, ideally on two switches so you can light zones separately.
- Kitchen: lights placed over the benches rather than in the middle of the room, so you’re not working in your own shadow.
- Hallway: 2 to 4, spaced evenly.
- Bathroom: check the fitting is rated for the zone it’s in. Your electrician will know the clearance rules near showers and baths.
Multiply your count by a per-light range, add the service fee, and you have a sensible budget to compare quotes against.
Things that push the cost up
- Dimmers. Not every LED works with every dimmer. A mismatched pair can flicker or buzz, which is one of the most common reasons people see flickering lights. A compatible dimmer costs more than a plain switch but saves trouble.
- Insulation. If your ceiling is insulated, choose IC-4 rated downlights. These are designed to be covered by insulation. Older fittings needed clearance gaps, which leaves cold spots in your insulation.
- Smart lighting. Smart switches or app-controlled downlights add parts and set-up time.
- Two-storey homes. Running new switch cables to the ground floor of a two-storey house can mean extra time finding a path through the floor.
- Patching. Moving a light or closing an old hole needs a plasterer. Most electricians don’t do patching, so ask who will.
Things that keep it down
- Do all the rooms at once. You pay one service fee instead of several, and the electrician can plan the cable runs together.
- Choose fittings with your electrician. Cheap online kits sometimes have short leads, poor drivers or no IC rating. A slightly dearer fitting can be quicker to install.
- Keep existing cut-outs. Matching the new fitting to your old hole size avoids extra cutting and patching.
Why it has to be a licensed electrician
Changing a globe is fine. Anything involving the wiring isn’t. In NSW you need an electrical licence for any electrical wiring work regardless of the cost, according to NSW Government licensing guidance. Badly installed downlights, especially old halogens buried in insulation, have been linked to roof fires. A licensed electrician also gives you a Certificate of Compliance for the work.
If you’re still choosing fittings, our LED downlight buying guide explains colour temperature, brightness and what IC-4 means.
Planning new lights? We install downlights and LED upgrades across the Inner West, including Dulwich Hill, Marrickville and Glebe. See our indoor lighting page, or call 0421 772 661 for a fixed quote.
Frequently asked questions
Is it cheaper to replace halogen downlights with LEDs than to install new ones?
Usually, yes. Existing holes and cabling mean less labour per light. You may still need a new driver for each fitting, and occasionally a larger cut-out if the new fitting is a different size.
How many downlights do I need for a room?
It depends on the room size, ceiling height, and the brightness and beam angle of the fitting. Many installers start with a spacing of about 1.2 to 1.5 metres for a standard ceiling and adjust from there.
Can I put downlights in a pressed-metal ceiling?
It’s often not recommended. Cutting pressed metal is hard to do neatly and can damage a heritage feature. Pendants or surface-mounted lights are usually a better fit.
Do LED downlights save much on power?
LEDs use much less electricity than halogen or incandescent globes for similar light, and they last much longer. The exact saving depends on how many lights you have and how long they’re on.