A completely blank induction cooktop is different from one that lights up but won't heat. No display at all usually means power isn't reaching it, and that's normally an electrical supply problem rather than the cooktop.
Try the steps below. If there's still nothing, call 0421 772 661 for a licensed electrician to test the circuit.
A cooktop that died with a bang, a flash, a burning smell or smoke needs to stay off. Switch off its circuit at the switchboard, don't touch the glass if it's cracked, and call 000 if there's any fire. Don't keep trying it to see if it comes back.
Leave the cooktop in the bench and the switchboard cover on. You won't need to open anything for these checks.
Many cooktops have a wall switch or isolator nearby, sometimes in a cupboard or on the splashback. Make sure it's on. It's easy to switch off by mistake during cleaning.
Look for a tripped breaker or safety switch labelled cooktop, hotplates or range. Reset it once; if it trips again, leave it off.
If the display shows anything, the cooktop has power. A child lock or key lock may be on. Check the manual for how to unlock your model.
If other appliances or lights are also out, the issue may be a wider circuit or supply problem. Check Ausgrid's outage information if the whole house is affected.
Note whether anything happened just before: a storm, a spill, other electrical work, or a smell. It helps narrow the cause.
Isolator or breaker off. The simplest cause. A cooktop's isolator gets bumped, or a breaker trips and nobody notices. If resetting restores power and it stays on, you're done.
Loose or burnt connection. Cooktops draw heavy current. A connection that's loosened at the switchboard, isolator or cooktop terminal block can overheat and eventually lose contact entirely. You'll often see a dark mark or smell something first. This needs an electrician to repair and test.
Missing supply on two-phase or three-phase homes. Some cooktops are connected across more than one phase. If one phase has dropped out, from the network or a fault at the board, the cooktop can lose part or all of its function. We can confirm all phases are present.
Failed power board or electronics. If voltage is reaching the cooktop's connection and it still shows nothing, the cooktop's internal electronics have failed. That's a job for the manufacturer's service network, not an electrician.
Call us when the breaker is on but the cooktop is dead, when something tripped and won't reset, when you notice a burning smell near the isolator or bench, or when only part of the cooktop is working.
We test voltage at the isolator and connection point, check terminations and protection, and tell you whether the supply is sound so you can confidently book an appliance repair if needed. See our oven and cooktop installation page for what we do.
No. If the display works, power is reaching it. Check for a child lock, pan compatibility, or a message on the display, and see the manual.
On cooktops supplied across two phases, losing one phase can disable some zones. It can also be an internal fault. Testing the supply tells you which.
Turn the cooktop off at the switchboard and don't use it. Discolouring means heat, and the switch or connection needs replacing.
No. It's hard-wired electrical work and must be done by a licensed electrician in NSW.
That's a question for the appliance repairer. We can confirm the supply is fine, so you know the cost of the fix sits with the appliance.
NSW Electrical Contractor Licence 332956C · Fully insured · Since 2016 · Based in Hurlstone Park
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