A bathroom exhaust fan that has stopped, or runs but barely moves any steam, lets moisture build up fast: mould on the ceiling, peeling paint and swollen door frames follow. The cause is usually power, the control, a worn motor or a blocked duct.
Work through the checks below. If it's still not right, call 0421 772 661 and we'll test and repair or replace it.
Bathrooms combine water and electricity, so take any warning signs seriously. If the fan smells hot, has melted or discoloured plastic, makes a grinding or crackling noise, or water is dripping from it, switch it off and leave it off. Turn off the circuit at the switchboard if you can do so safely and call an electrician. Call 000 for any fire or injury.
Don't remove the grille or the fan body to look inside. Exhaust fans are wired to mains power in the ceiling. Use only the checks below.
Many bathroom fans run on a timer or a combined light and fan switch. Make sure you're using the right switch, and give a timer-controlled fan time to start.
Look for a tripped safety switch or breaker. Reset it once. If it trips again, leave it off. A fan that trips the safety switch has its own guide: exhaust fan tripping the safety switch.
With the fan running, hold a single sheet of toilet paper near the grille. If it isn't drawn towards the fan, the fan isn't moving much air, even if you can hear it.
A grille thick with lint and dust chokes airflow. With the fan switched off, wipe or vacuum the outside of the grille. Don't remove it.
A fan that hums but doesn't spin, or one that rattles or grinds, has a mechanical problem. Switch it off and have it looked at rather than leaving it running.
No power to the fan. A tripped circuit, faulty switch, failed timer or a loose connection in the ceiling will stop the fan dead. Diagnosing these needs electrical testing.
Worn or seized motor. Exhaust fans run in a warm, damp environment and their motors wear out. A fan that hums without turning, starts slowly or is noisy is usually near the end. Replacing the fan is often simpler and cheaper than any repair.
Blocked or poorly installed ducting. If the fan runs but steam lingers, the duct may be crushed, disconnected, too long, or not vented anywhere useful. In some older Inner West homes, fans were fitted to blow straight into the roof space, which can lead to moisture problems up there.
Combination units. If your fan is part of a 3-in-1 unit with heat lamps and a light, one part can fail while the others keep working. See our heat lamp troubleshooting page if that's your setup.
Call us if the fan is dead while the bathroom light on the same circuit works, if it hums without spinning, if it trips the safety switch, or if steam isn't clearing even with a clean grille.
We test the supply and controls, check the ducting, and replace the fan where that makes sense. Our bathroom exhaust fan and heat lamp guide explains the options, and our lighting and power service covers the work.
Hold a sheet of toilet paper near the grille while it runs. If it's drawn up against the grille, the fan is pulling air. If not, it's weak or blocked.
Usually not. Motors in budget fans are rarely repaired; a replacement fan is the practical fix.
No. Exhaust fans are hardwired, and replacing one is licensed electrical work in NSW.
Often a blocked grille, a crushed or disconnected duct, or a fan that's too small for the room.
Yes, with a timer or run-on control. We can fit one when replacing the fan.
NSW Electrical Contractor Licence 332956C · Fully insured · Since 2016 · Based in Hurlstone Park
Excellent electrician Blue Link Electrical was honest, knowledgeable, and took the time to answer my questions The work was completed quickly without rushing and everything works perfectly Will be using them
Very professional and reliable service. Blue Link Electrical were punctual, friendly, and knew exactly what they were doing. The job was completed to a high standard and the place was left clean. Highly recommend to anyone needing electrical work.
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