Microwaves draw a lot of current, especially the moment they start. If one trips the power, it's usually either too much on the circuit at once, or a fault inside the microwave. Wiring is the less common cause, but it happens.
Use the checks below to tell which. If it's the outlet or the circuit, ring 0421 772 661 and we'll sort it.
Never open a microwave or remove its outer case, even when it's unplugged. Microwaves contain parts that can hold a dangerous charge long after the power is off. Internal repairs are for the manufacturer's service network or a qualified appliance repairer.
If there's sparking inside the cavity that doesn't stop when you open the door, smoke, a burning smell or a scorched outlet, turn the circuit off at the switchboard if it's safe. Don't use the microwave again until it's checked. Call 000 for fire or injury.
The answer usually comes from two pieces of information: which device at the switchboard tripped, and what else was running at the time.
A circuit breaker trip points to overload. A safety switch trip points to leakage, more often an appliance fault.
A kettle, toaster, air fryer or dishwasher on the same circuit at the same time is a common reason for a breaker trip.
Unplug the microwave, reset the tripped device, then run the microwave on its own with nothing else on the circuit.
Look for brown marks, melting or a plug that feels hot after use. Those mean a poor connection that needs an electrician.
Built-ins often plug into an outlet inside the cabinet. Turn the circuit off at the switchboard before reaching in to unplug it.
Many older kitchens, including plenty in Inner West homes, were wired when a kitchen had a fridge, a kettle and not much else. Today a microwave, air fryer, coffee machine, toaster and dishwasher may all share one or two circuits. Running a few at once can exceed what the circuit is protected for, and the breaker does its job.
The short-term fix is to avoid running high-draw appliances together. The lasting fix is adding circuits or power points so the load is shared. That's especially worth doing during a renovation: our kitchen renovation electrical checklist explains what to plan, and power point installation covers adding outlets.
If the microwave trips the power on its own, on a circuit with nothing else running, and other appliances work fine on that outlet, the fault is inside the microwave. Common culprits are failing internal components that draw too much current at start-up or leak current to earth. A door switch fault can also make a microwave trip as soon as the door is opened or closed.
None of those are DIY repairs. For a countertop microwave, replacement is often more practical than repair; for a built-in, contact the manufacturer or an appliance repairer. We confirm the outlet and circuit are sound first if you need to rule out the wiring.
Call us if other appliances also trip that outlet, if the plug or outlet shows heat damage, if the breaker trips with only the microwave running and a replacement microwave does the same, or if tripping started after kitchen work. A loose connection at the outlet or in the circuit can cause trips under heavy load and gets worse with time.
If it's the kettle rather than the microwave, see kettle tripping the safety switch, and for general tripping, safety switch keeps tripping.
Both draw a lot of current. On the same circuit, together they can exceed the breaker's rating. Use them at different times or on different circuits.
If other appliances work fine on the same outlet, the microwave likely has an internal fault. Have it repaired or replaced, and don't open it yourself.
Not always, but in busy kitchens a dedicated circuit or extra circuits for benchtop appliances help prevent overloads. We can look at how your kitchen is wired.
That often points to a fault with an internal door switch. It's an appliance repair, not a wiring one.
If it trips on its own with nothing else running, stop using it until it's checked. Intermittent faults usually get worse.
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