Short answer: Plan kitchen electrics before the cabinets are ordered: list every appliance and its circuit needs, mark power points on the plan, design layered lighting, check your switchboard has space and safety switches, and book the electrician for a rough-in before the walls are closed and a fit-off after the benchtops go in. Changing things after cabinets are installed costs far more.
A kitchen renovation is the best chance you’ll get to fix the electrics in the busiest room of the house. In older Inner West homes, the kitchen is often at the back of the house, in a later addition, with one or two power points and an old fluorescent light. Here’s a step-by-step checklist so nothing gets missed.
1. Make an appliance list
Write down every appliance and how it’ll be powered. This drives the circuit design.
| Appliance | Typical electrical need |
|---|---|
| Induction or electric cooktop | Dedicated hardwired circuit; see induction wiring requirements |
| Wall oven | Often a dedicated circuit, sometimes shared with the cooktop if sized correctly |
| Rangehood | Power point or hardwired connection in the cupboard above |
| Dishwasher | Power point in an accessible adjoining cupboard |
| Fridge | Its own power point; consider an RCBO so other faults don’t switch it off |
| Microwave or steam oven (built-in) | Power point in the cavity or adjacent cupboard |
| Instant boiling or chilled water tap | Power point under the sink cabinet |
| Waste disposal | Power point and switch under the sink |
| Benchtop appliances | Plenty of double power points along the bench |
Always check each appliance’s installation manual. It’ll specify the connection type and circuit rating.
2. Plan power points
A common regret is “not enough power points”. Think about:
- double power points every metre or so along benches
- island benches, which may need pop-up outlets or outlets in the end panel
- USB power points for phones and tablets
- a charging drawer or appliance cupboard with power
- hidden outlets in cupboards for appliances you want off the bench
Mark each one on the kitchen plan with a height and position, and give the plan to both your cabinet maker and electrician.
3. Layer the lighting
| Layer | Purpose | Options |
|---|---|---|
| General | Light the whole room | LED downlights or a ceiling fitting |
| Task | Light the bench where you work | LED strip under the overhead cupboards |
| Feature | Atmosphere | Pendants over the island, toe-kick strip lighting |
| Inside cupboards | Find things | Sensor strip lights in pantries and drawers |
Put each layer on its own switch or dimmer. Our LED downlight buying guide covers brightness and colour temperature.
4. Check the switchboard
New dedicated circuits need space on the switchboard and safety switch protection. If your board has ceramic fuses, no spare space or only one safety switch, plan a switchboard upgrade as part of the reno. Doing it now is easier than adding it later. If you’re going all-electric, consider heat pump hot water and future loads too.
5. Get the order of trades right
- Design and quote. Electrician reviews the plan and appliance list.
- Demolition. Old kitchen removed. Electrician makes old circuits safe.
- Rough-in. Cables, boxes and circuits run while walls and ceilings are open.
- Plaster, cabinets and benchtops.
- Fit-off. Power points, lights and appliances connected.
- Testing and compliance certificate. NSW requires the electrician to lodge a CCEW within 7 days of testing, according to the NSW Government.
The rough-in is where planning pays off. Once plaster and splashbacks go up, moving a power point means cutting tiles.
6. Don’t forget
- Exhaust: the rangehood should duct outside where possible
- Smoke alarms: keep them out of the kitchen itself to avoid nuisance alarms, and consider whether renovation work triggers upgrades
- Data: a data point or Wi-Fi access point if the kitchen is a work area, see our NBN and data cabling page
- Gas disconnection: if going electric, a licensed gasfitter caps the gas
- Splashback outlets: check spacing from the sink and cooktop with your electrician
Renovating your kitchen? Send us your plan and appliance list and we’ll design the circuits, lighting and power with you. Call 0421 772 661 or see our lighting and power service.
Contracts and budgets
In NSW, residential building work over $5,000 needs a written contract, and work over $20,000 has extra requirements, according to the NSW Government contracts page. If your builder is managing the job, ask who the electrician is and check their licence.
For appliance connection costs, see oven and cooktop installation cost. We wire kitchen renovations in Leichhardt, Annandale, Petersham and across the Inner West.
Frequently asked questions
When should I involve an electrician in a kitchen renovation?
At the design stage, before cabinets are ordered. The electrician needs your appliance list and layout to plan circuits, and must do the rough-in before walls and ceilings are closed.
How many power points should a kitchen have?
There’s no single number. Plan double power points along every usable bench, plus dedicated outlets for appliances like the dishwasher, fridge and microwave.
Does my kitchen renovation need a switchboard upgrade?
Not always. If your board has no spare space, ceramic fuses or limited safety switch protection, an upgrade is often needed for the new circuits.
Can my builder’s electrician do the work?
Yes, as long as they’re licensed. Ask for their licence number and the compliance certificate when the work is finished.