A good sensor light comes on when someone walks up the side path and stays off when a possum crosses the fence. Getting there is mostly about the right fitting in the right spot, aimed and adjusted properly once it's up.
Ring 0421 772 661 and tell us which areas you want lit. We'll look at the layout, suggest positions and give you a written quote.
Most residential sensor lights use a passive infrared (PIR) sensor that responds to moving heat. Some floodlights have the sensor built in; others use a separate sensor that can control one or several lights, which helps when the best place to detect movement isn't the best place to mount the light. Dusk-to-dawn lights use a light sensor (photocell) instead and stay on through the night, sometimes at a low level that brightens on movement.
Old halogen floodlights are still common on Inner West houses. Replacing them with LED fittings cuts heat and running cost, and the newer sensors tend to be easier to adjust. If you want lighting for the garden or facade rather than security, our outdoor lighting page covers that side.
These are the spots where a sensor light makes the biggest practical difference.
Light for getting out of the car and finding keys, aimed down the driveway rather than into the street.
Narrow terrace and cottage side paths are dark and full of trip hazards like bins and taps.
A light that comes on as you step out with the washing or the rubbish.
Many Inner West properties back onto lanes. A sensor light over the rear gate or garage door is a common request.
Lighting the steps and door for visitors, often paired with a video intercom or doorbell camera.
Sensors that stay on, never trigger or switch on and off by themselves are often easier to replace than repair.
Most complaints about sensor lights come from poor positioning. A sensor facing the footpath triggers on every passer-by; one aimed at trees triggers whenever the wind picks up; one mounted too high may miss someone walking straight towards it. We mount the sensor where it sees the approach path, then adjust the detection range, on-time and light threshold on site, after dark if needed.
We also think about neighbours. A floodlight pointed into the house next door causes friction quickly, so we aim fittings down and into your property. Where you want manual control, a switch inside can override the sensor so the light stays on for a party or a late delivery. Sensor lighting works well alongside cameras; see our CCTV installation page, and our sensor security light job in Croydon for an example.
Swapping an existing floodlight for a new sensor fitting in the same spot is a short job. Adding a light where there's no wiring means running cable from an existing circuit, which depends on roof and wall access; a two-storey eave or a solid brick wall without a cavity takes longer than a single-storey timber-framed rear. Separate sensors controlling several lights, extra switching and the fitting you choose all move the price.
On the day we isolate the circuit, mount the fitting on a weatherproof base, seal the cable entry, connect and test. Where the work needs a CCEW, we lodge it and send you a copy. Our outdoor and garden lighting guide has more on choosing fittings.
Usually moving branches, passing cars, animals or warm air from a heat pump or air conditioner unit in its field of view. Re-aiming or reducing sensitivity normally fixes it.
Many can. Flicking the wall switch off and on again often puts them into a manual-on mode, or we can wire an override switch.
Yes. It's one of our most common outdoor jobs and usually uses the existing wiring.
They suit spots where running cable is impractical, but they're usually dimmer and depend on sun exposure. Hardwired fittings are more reliable for main entries and driveways.
Yes. Good lighting helps cameras capture usable footage at night. We can plan both together.
NSW Electrical Contractor Licence 332956C · Fully insured · Since 2016 · Based in Hurlstone Park
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