A rangehood looks like a simple appliance, but getting it right means the power is in the right place, the unit sits at the correct height above the cooktop, and the air has somewhere sensible to go. We install canopy, undermount, integrated and island rangehoods across the Inner West and Sydney.
Call 0421 772 661 with the rangehood model and a photo of the wall or cabinet it's going into, and we'll tell you what's needed.
Most rangehoods plug into a power point concealed in the cabinet above, or behind the chimney cover of a canopy unit. Part of our job is making sure that outlet exists, is in a spot the manual allows, and won't end up sitting in the path of the duct or right above the heat. Some models are hard-wired instead, and those get a suitable isolation arrangement.
The physical install matters as much as the wiring. A canopy hood has to be fixed securely to the wall framing, an undermount needs a cabinet that can take its weight, and an island hood hangs from the ceiling structure. Mounting height above the cooktop comes from the rangehood manual and, where the cooktop's manual gives a minimum, whichever is greater. Too low is a heat and fire risk; too high and the hood barely captures anything.
Ducting is where the job often involves another trade. A short duct through an external wall is straightforward to plan; a run through the roof needs flashing and weatherproofing, which is often arranged with a roofer or your builder. We tell you at quoting exactly what we include. Our guide to ducted vs recirculating rangehoods helps if you haven't decided which way to go.
Old hood out, new one in, with the existing outlet checked and moved if the new model's chimney or cabinet layout clashes with it.
Fixing to the wall framing, adding a concealed outlet, and setting height to the manuals.
Working with the cabinetmaker's cut-out so the motor, filters and power all line up.
Power from the ceiling and secure fixing to the structure above, planned before the ceiling is finished.
Power rough-in at the right height while walls are open, then fit-off after the splashback.
Dead lights or fan, often a supply issue or appliance fault. Our rangehood not working guide covers what to check first.
The simplest job is a like-for-like swap where the outlet is already in the right place. Cost goes up when a new outlet has to be run, especially through a finished splashback or tiled wall, when the hood is a heavy island unit, or when ducting has to go through the roof rather than a nearby external wall. Removing and disposing of the old hood, adjusting cabinetry and patching tiles can also add time.
Fittings that arrive missing parts, or ducting that doesn't match the outlet size on the hood, can stall an install. Check the box contents before the day and let us know the duct size you plan to use.
In single-storey cottages, a duct can often go up through the ceiling and out the roof. In two-storey terraces with a bedroom above the kitchen, that route is blocked, so an external-wall outlet or a recirculating hood is usually the answer. Apartments are often limited to recirculating models unless the building already provides an exhaust point, and strata rules may control any new penetration through external walls.
We installed a rangehood in a Dulwich Hill home, which shows the kind of finish we aim for.
You get a written quote that spells out what is and isn't included, especially ducting and roof work. We fit the hood, connect it, and test the circuit to AS/NZS 3000. Where new circuit work is involved, we lodge a Certificate of Compliance for Electrical Work. Before we leave, we run the fan through each speed and check the lights so you know it works.
It depends on the rangehood and cooktop manuals, which give a minimum clearance. We set it to whichever requirement is greater, then balance that with your height and how the hood looks.
Usually not. Most plug into a standard power point. The point is placement: the outlet must be accessible for isolation and positioned where the manual allows.
We discuss it at quoting. Short wall ducting is usually straightforward; roof penetrations need weatherproofing that may involve a roofer or your builder.
A recirculating rangehood with carbon filters is the usual answer. Check with strata before any new external wall opening.
Yes. Send the model so we can check the power arrangement and fixing requirements before we arrive.
NSW Electrical Contractor Licence 332956C · Fully insured · Since 2016 · Based in Hurlstone Park
Excellent electrician Blue Link Electrical was honest, knowledgeable, and took the time to answer my questions The work was completed quickly without rushing and everything works perfectly Will be using them
Very professional and reliable service. Blue Link Electrical were punctual, friendly, and knew exactly what they were doing. The job was completed to a high standard and the place was left clean. Highly recommend to anyone needing electrical work.
Can't fault the service from Blue Link Electrical From first contact to job completion everything was smooth and professional Quality workmanship and great attention to detail. One of the best trades experiences I've had. Make sure you do them slowly
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